{"id":896,"date":"2012-07-09T15:32:54","date_gmt":"2012-07-09T15:32:54","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/wordpress30\/?p=896"},"modified":"2025-04-21T17:41:54","modified_gmt":"2025-04-21T17:41:54","slug":"montreal-and-quebec-city","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/?p=896","title":{"rendered":"Montreal and Quebec City June 2012"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>An eight day road trip by Eileen, Madeline and Tim.\u00a0 We took our new (used) &#8217;06 Honda Accord.\u00a0 Nice road car, strong, fast (thank the manual transmission for over the top acceleration), quiet.\u00a0 Great AC.\u00a0 Got an occasional 35mpg on 75mph highway runs.<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"color: #99cc00;\"><em>(Note: <em>Click a thumbnail below to see an associated photo gallery, which will open in a different tab\/window. Close that tab\/window when finished to return control to this page.)<\/em><br \/>\n<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Accord-1.jpg\" rel=\"attachment wp-att-899\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignleft size-full wp-image-899\" src=\"http:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Accord-1.jpg\" alt=\"Accord-1\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>We drove over the UP, entered Canada at Sault Ste. Marie, and embarked on Canada Hwy 17 towards Montreal. Made it to sleepy Blind River the first night, right on the shore of Lake Michigan.\u00a0 It&#8217;s a bonus to be able to pull up right next to the door.<\/p>\n<p>(click for more pics).<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.smugmug.com\/2012\/Canada\/First-Night\/24014484_BDBXVX\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-905\" title=\"can-1\" src=\"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/can-11-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/can-11-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/can-11-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/can-11.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Hwy 17 is a beautiful road, nice scenery, excellent pavement. \u00a0 The speed limit is 100Kph, or 62mph. We saw enough police that we didn&#8217;t push it too far.\u00a0 One has to drive through numerous small towns, so average speeds are low.\u00a0 It took us most of the day to make 550 miles to Montreal.\u00a0 We saw the occasional touring bicycle and hundreds of Harleys.<\/p>\n<p>In Montreal, we stayed in a college student&#8217;s 1br apartment, in the old part of town.\u00a0 Eileen found this place through AirB&amp;B.\u00a0 The place was decent, in a nondescript building.\u00a0 We immediately found this older section Montreal to be charming, old world, different than anything we&#8217;re used to back home.\u00a0 The side streets were uniformly very narrow, one way, and redolant with trees.\u00a0 And parked cars.\u00a0 Every 4-5 blocks, a main street with commerce, shops, bars, and restaurants would emerge and head off in either direction for a mile or two.\u00a0 The look was clean and inviting, there were no garish signs, very few chain style stores.\u00a0 We felt totally safe, knowing that the chances of armed robbery had fallen to\u00a0 .00001% the moment we crossed the border.\u00a0 Since the weather was so warm, crowds thronged every sidewalk and eatery.\u00a0 And, we may as well be blunt here &#8211; <span style=\"text-decoration: underline;\">everyone<\/span> speaks French.\u00a0 Who could have known?\u00a0 And yet, we never met a person who not ready and able to speak fluent English gracefully.\u00a0 All Quebec&#8217;ers learn English as a 2nd language, and we heard that the other provinces return the favor with French. \u00a0 Click the link below for a few snapshots of street scenes.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.smugmug.com\/2012\/Canada\/Street\/24014716_X5w44r\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-906\" title=\"Street-10\" src=\"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Street-10-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Street-10-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Street-10-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Street-10.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Housing was dense, and followed a certain pattern.\u00a0 There were virtually no single family homes.\u00a0 The basic construct was a two flat, or three flat, side by side with the next, walls touching.\u00a0 The ground floors offered their own door.\u00a0 Second levels were mostly reached by an outside, wrought iron staircase, often curving.\u00a0 Third floors were reached by climbing the outside stairs to the 2nd floor, then entering the building for another set of stairs inside.<\/p>\n<p>There were plenty of exceptions to this style, apartment buildings mostly, but for block after block, mile after mile, this was what we saw.\u00a0 Being down in the thick of things came at a certain price &#8211; small housing units in close proximity to neighbors, hard to get parking, lots of stairs to climb.\u00a0 Montreal has a serious winter climate, and we marveled at how folks navigated these treacherous stairs in snow and rain.<\/p>\n<p>A word about Canadian stairs.\u00a0 They are steep!\u00a0 Inside or out, they don&#8217;t follow any kind of American building code for limits on the width or height of a step.\u00a0 Mostly they felt like climbing a ladder.\u00a0 Over three days, we saw almost no overweight people and attributed this amazing fact to the stairs and to the swarms of bicycles.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.smugmug.com\/2012\/Canada\/House\/24014967_8r3KHQ\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-912\" title=\"House-16\" src=\"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/House-16-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/House-16-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/House-16-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/House-16.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Biking &#8211; where do I start?\u00a0 We&#8217;ve never seen so much bike traffic.\u00a0 It&#8217;s the perfect place for it &#8211; very dense, but flat, everything within reachable distance.\u00a0 Montreal basically invented the bike sharing program that has been adopted in notorious bicycling European cities and is now making inroads in Madison, Boulder, and other American cities.\u00a0 On our first day, a Sunday, everyone was in party mode and going about their serious business of fun.\u00a0 Maybe half the riders we saw were using Bixi bikes, the official bike sharing bike.\u00a0 No one wore bike clothes of any kind, or helmets.\u00a0\u00a0 The Bixi system features over 300 kiosks, and 5,000 bikes.\u00a0 We eventually rented a few bikes for the grand cost of $7\/24 hours\/bike.\u00a0 The $7 is what you pay if you &#8220;follow the rules&#8221;, and the rules say you must check out a bike, and return it to any kiosk, within 30 minutes.\u00a0 You pay a penalty for the 30-60 minute gap, and an even bigger one for 60-90 minutes.\u00a0 Lord help you if you just don&#8217;t return the bike. You&#8217;ll be out at least $250.\u00a0 You must use a credit card to start the process.\u00a0 You swipe the card and the kiosk gives you a &#8220;code&#8221; which is good for only a few minutes. You approach any bike, punch in the code, yank the bike out of its dock, and you are good to go.\u00a0 The time limit seemed bizarre and unusable to us at first, but it&#8217;s really not so bad in that you can&#8217;t go a block without seeing another kiosk.\u00a0 Once you check you bike back in, you have a two minute &#8220;cooling off&#8221; period, then you can pull another bike (or the same one) out again and you&#8217;re good for another 30 minutes. You repeat the process: swipe your card, get a code, punch it in.\u00a0 The whole scheme is designed to keep these bikes in circulation and not have them hoarded, and it works.<\/p>\n<p>On a working day, we did see kiosks with no bikes.\u00a0 If you depend on one to get to work (and clearly many did) it could be a mild drag.\u00a0 You&#8217;d have to walk to other kiosks and hope for better luck.\u00a0 Also, we saw kiosks that were completely full, presenting yet another problem for someone trying to beat the 30 minute limit to check back in.<\/p>\n<p>Most streets were rideable, many had bike stripes.\u00a0 And a few were main thoroughfares, with a double lane.\u00a0 One of those went right by our place.\u00a0 Bikers streamed by day and night.<\/p>\n<p>On a Monday morning, the bike scene changed a bit from Sunday.\u00a0 We saw a much higher percentage of non-Bixi bikes and more usage of helmets and bicycle clothing.\u00a0 And more riders!\u00a0 Along the main bike routes, it was nothing for 50 bikes to pile up at a red light.\u00a0 This went on for an hour and a half.\u00a0 Madison thinks they are &#8220;bike friendly&#8221;?\u00a0 It&#8217;s time to get real.\u00a0 Madison is a poseur, if you consider things like % of riders going to work.\u00a0 Montreal has them beat by an order of magnitude.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.smugmug.com\/2012\/Canada\/Montreal-Bikes\/24014637_B2GMdg\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-916\" title=\"MonBikes-3\" src=\"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/MonBikes-31-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/MonBikes-31-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/MonBikes-31-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/MonBikes-31.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We drove (! &#8211; what a mistake !) down to the water&#8217;s edge to see the Old Old Town. Parking was nonexistant.\u00a0 We should have taken a Bixi bike, but were having problems with the kiosks at this early point in our assimilation.\u00a0 The old waterfront blends and intermixes with modern buildings.<\/p>\n<p>At some point we walked Rue Ste-Catherine, a long street closed off to traffic, festooned with purple beads overhead.\u00a0 Much to see, lots of eateries.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.smugmug.com\/2012\/Canada\/town\/24015052_4GTHzq\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-921\" title=\"downtown-5\" src=\"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/downtown-5-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/downtown-5-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/downtown-5-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/downtown-5.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>McGill is large, world renowned university of 35,000 students in the heart of downtown Montreal. Madeline being 16, we signed up for an official tour.\u00a0 These following pictures are random scenes around campus.\u00a0 All classes at McGill are conducted in English, and the student body has maybe 7-8% Americans. It&#8217;s an old campus, so Very Old Buildings are intermixed with modern skyscrapers.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.smugmug.com\/2012\/Canada\/mcgill\/24022939_TnBrcM\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-914\" title=\"mcgill-10\" src=\"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/mcgill-10-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/mcgill-10-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/mcgill-10-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/mcgill-10.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>After a few days of Montreal, up the river we went, 150 miles, to Quebec City. Eileen had lined up another AirB&amp;B, with the loquacious host and owner Giles Prince, a militant Francophile and civil rights advocate.\u00a0 We received quite the history lesson regarding American and British atrocities against the French, going back 250 years.\u00a0 (It seems like yesterday!).\u00a0 Our unit was new, the windows didn&#8217;t open, and the first night it must have been 90F in there.\u00a0 Giles brought us fans and rigged a few windows and it improved.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.smugmug.com\/2012\/Canada\/Prince\/24027780_pWxwM7\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-928\" title=\"Prince-1\" src=\"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Prince-1-300x154.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"154\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Prince-1-300x154.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Prince-1-1024x526.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/Prince-1.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>The Old Walled City was quite the scene, despite being the tourist mecca that it is.\u00a0 It&#8217;s a fairly large area, with the eateries and tourist shops concentrating on a few streets.\u00a0 We could walk there in 10 minutes from our AirB&amp;B.\u00a0 Some modern buildings were nestled in with the really old stuff, a mistake that I&#8217;m sure many wish could be undone.<\/p>\n<p>The Hotel Frontenac dominated the landscape.\u00a0 Our favorite thing to do was walk around the outside of the walled city on boardwalks.\u00a0 Many stairs, it was a workout.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.smugmug.com\/2012\/Canada\/OldCty\/24027925_F8GJ3L\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-930\" title=\"Typical entrance into the Old City\" src=\"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/old-1-2-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/old-1-2-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/old-1-2-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/old-1-2.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We rode the ferry across the river to Levi, just to do it.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.smugmug.com\/2012\/Canada\/ferry\/24028246_Jf8GrG\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-934\" title=\"ferry-1\" src=\"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/ferry-11-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/ferry-11-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/ferry-11-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/ferry-11.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>So that was it.\u00a0 We commenced to\u00a0 hightailing it back to the USA and cheaper gas.\u00a0 Crossed the border at 1,000 Islands, in upper NY.\u00a0 Headed to Niagara Falls. Managed to get there just before dark, went to the falls to see what we could see.\u00a0 A lot, it turns out.\u00a0 The falls a lit up at night with powerful floods from the Canadian side.<\/p>\n<p>The layout of the falls in convoluted, so this group of photos includes some overheads, scrapped from Bing maps, that helps orient a person.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.smugmug.com\/2012\/Canada\/Niagra-night\/24029516_bgXXLP\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-935\" title=\"falls-night-3\" src=\"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/falls-night-3-300x224.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"224\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/falls-night-3-300x224.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/falls-night-3-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/falls-night-3.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>We came back the next morning to see the Falls in the day, take a few pictures, before driving home.\u00a0 Made it all the way to Madison before dark, some 700 miles.\u00a0 Got lucky going through Chicago on a Sunday evening.\u00a0 All our roads were wide open, and for a good hour, the other side was bumper to bumper.\u00a0 Go figure.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/northernloon.smugmug.com\/2012\/Canada\/falls-day\/24029970_27nvR6\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-medium wp-image-936\" title=\"falls-day-7\" src=\"http:\/\/www.northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/falls-day-7-300x199.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"199\" srcset=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/falls-day-7-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/falls-day-7-1024x682.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/07\/falls-day-7.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 300px) 85vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>An eight day road trip by Eileen, Madeline and Tim.\u00a0 We took our new (used) &#8217;06 Honda Accord.\u00a0 Nice road car, strong, fast (thank the manual transmission for over the top acceleration), quiet.\u00a0 Great AC.\u00a0 Got an occasional 35mpg on 75mph highway runs. (Note: Click a thumbnail below to see an associated photo gallery, which &hellip; <a href=\"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/?p=896\" class=\"more-link\">Continue reading<span class=\"screen-reader-text\"> &#8220;Montreal and Quebec City June 2012&#8221;<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":"","_links_to":"","_links_to_target":""},"categories":[4,10],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-896","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-photo","category-vacation"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/896","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=896"}],"version-history":[{"count":46,"href":"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/896\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2056,"href":"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/896\/revisions\/2056"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=896"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=896"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/northernloon.net\/travelogue\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=896"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}